Saturday, December 21, 2019

Holiday work

Here at Whangarei Heads I feel like a spy. Walking the beach with my kids in my island shirt, wielding a melting ice block, I resemble another flabby middle-aged Aucklander taking an Xmas break. But I'm not here for sun, or sand, or mini golf. I'm on the trail of long-dead slavers.
The names on the map of the Heads seem innocent, & sometimes picturesque. But if they are assembled in the right order, they tell a forgotten story, the story of the Scottish migrants who built ships in these bays & sailed them north to Melanesia, in search of slaves.
Urquhart Bay remembers the captain of the Flirt, a schooner whose crew incinerated several villages in the Solomons in 1880. Alex Urquhart was taking revenge after another ship built by Scottish migrants to the Heads, the Borealis, was stormed by Malaitans tired of slave raids.
McDonald Bank is a mudflat named after the family of a young man who was shot off Erromango Island in 1869. John McDonald was working for Donald MacLeod, whose gun & slave dealing & plantations had made him the richest white in the New Hebrides. Both men hailed from the Heads.
Smugglers Bay is the most popular picnic spot on the Heads. After they'd delivered slaves to plantations of Fiji, Samoa, Qld, & New Caledonia, the mariners of the Heads would often celebrate by buying whiskey from French colonists on New Caledonia. They would bring the liquor home, sneaking it past customs ships, burying it in the sand.
I walk down the beaches & the bush trails here, smiling at passers by, patting the kids on their heads, hearing the screams of Malaitans mingle with the soft surf, the chiming of tui. My brain is like a radio tuned to a secret station.

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