Tuesday, October 21, 2008

The discovery of Limestone Country

In his marvellous novel The BFG, Roald Dahl notes that every atlas ends with a blank page. This page, Dahl suggests, is for places that have yet to be discovered - lands across the sea, or on other planets. But new places do not have to be found faraway - they can be discovered in blank spaces on the maps we have already made.

I discovered a new land on a page of a dogeared AA Road Atlas, where the thin yellow line of a gravel road suddenly vanished, like a stream going underground. A shaky hand had scribbled 'Limestone Country' over the blank space between the upper stretches of Raglan Harbour in the south, the Huntly district of the Waikato in the east, and the mouth of the Waikato River in the north.

For years I wanted to know what lay in that blank space, but I never got the opportunity - I did once make it to Waikaretu, a little village just west of the Huntly district, before the tyre of mate's car mysteriously exploded - and I never wanted to look at a more recent map, or consult the chaotic encyclopedia that is the internet. Over the years, Limestone Country became a sort of liminal place, like Tarkovsky's Zone - a site where I could project all sorts of fantasies. Was the area covered in primeval bush, or blazing gorse, or manicured deer farms? Was its limestone arranged in strange shapes on the surface, or did it sit underneath a mine? Had the military surrounded Limestone Country in barbed wire? Had archaeologists or fossickers invaded it yet? Was the coastline menaced by millionaires' homes?

Early last in June I managed to convince Skyler to accompany me into Limestone Country, using pathetic appeals to my upcoming birthday to extract the favour. We drove in through the rough coal country west of Huntly, past flooded mines and scrubcutter's huts, then dropped down Waikaretu Valley Road, then turned north, watching massive weirdly-sculpted limestone formations push their way through the green hills, like bones emerging through flesh. Plantations of elephant grass, ragwort, gorse, and woolly nightshade were interrupted by stands of huge, intricately gnarled puriri and rimu. In the middle of this strange landscape we discovered a cafe, which was owned and run by old friends of Skyler, and which boasted a Ponsonby barista and six months' supply of fair trade coffee from Colombia. After refuelling there we pushed north, down a narrow valley where the last tributary to the Waikato ran, until we reached Port Waikato, where New Zealand's longest river had grown gray and bloated.

A month of so later I revisited Limestone Country with Muzzlehatch, during one of the storms that made the winter of 2008 New Zealand's wettest in a decade. We entered the area from Port Waikato, after barely getting across a series of flooded waterways. Soon the rain changed gear, sending sheep and goats out of the weeds and into the bush. We decided to follow them, and bush-crashed off the road. Eventually we heard the hoarse voice of a creek, which we followed into the hills, until the hoof tracks we were walking in dissolved in the downpour.

We waited near the creek until the rain eased, swigging whiskey and smoking to stay warm, and arguing about an unusual tree we had discovered - I thought it might be a baobab, while Muzzlehatch insisted it was a native which had 'gone mutant' under the weird conditions of Limestone Country. When the sky had faded to grey we detoured back to our dripping car over a series of steep bald hills where middens lay like piles of ancient fragile coins. Now that I've actually been to Limestone Country I've felt that it's safe to start researching this odd and beautiful part of New Zealand. Despite what that old atlas tried to tell me, a potholed, gravel-voiced road runs right through the region from north to south. There is no road from east to west, though, so the wild Tasman coast between Port Waikato and Raglan can only be reached by four wheel drives, horses, and - if you're in better shape than Muzzlehatch and I - Shank's pony.

Limestone Country was settled by peoples of the Tainui waka many hundreds of years ago, as they pushed north from their stronghold at Kawhia Harbour. The settlers buried carved stones in the soil, to ensure its fertility, and kept the bones of their dead in caves in the limestone. Today marae still stand on the sites of ancient villages.

Limestone Country was a part of the Waikato Kingdom, the independent Maori state which was invaded by British troops on the 12th of July 1863. After the defeat of King Tawhiao and the exile of many of his followers the Maori hold on Limestone Country was weakened, but the region's remoteness and lack of roads meant that it was not opened up to Pakeha farmers until the first decades of the twentieth century.

After the First World War a huge block of land in the heart of the region was acquired by Charles Alma Baker, a former surveyor who had made a fortune from Malaysian rubber and counted Zane Grey amongst his fishing friends. Baker named the block Limestone Downs, and ruled it like a private kingdom. He imported gangs of Dalmatians to clear and fence the wilder parts of Limestone Downs; the immigrants lived in coastal villages that Maori had abandoned during the tuberculosis pandemic of 1918.

In the 1920s Baker discovered the esoteric theories of Rudolf Steiner, abandoned the use of conventional fertiliser, and began a series of disastrous experiments in occult agriculture at Limestone Downs. Baker became steadily more eccentric, until he decided that all the nutrients needed to sustain life came directly from the sun. In his last years Baker was often seen wandering Limestone Downs naked with both arms raised toward the sun, in the hope that its life-giving rays might rejuvenate his bloated wrinkled body. Baker bequeathed his estate to a trust, which runs a sheep and dairy farm on conventional agricultural principles. Smaller sheep farms cover much of the rest of the cleared land in the Limestone Country. In the 1930s the young Elsie Locke hiked through Limestone Country with a friend. Locke would go on to become a distinguished author and educationalist, and she included an account of her journey in her 1981 autobiography, Student at the Gates. Locke remembered stripping naked to cross the Kaawa River, which flows into the Tasman south of Port Waikato, only to find that the river's waters barely reached her ankles. In the '30s many Maori had returned to Limestone Country; they lived far from roads and electricity, in tiny villages close to the Tasman coast. Many did not speak English, but they gave Locke food and shelter. Today Limestone Country is visited by the far-flung peoples of Tainui, who enjoy the hospitality of the many marae in the area during tangi or sports days, by Lord of the Rings fans, who seek out the location of Peter Jackson's Weathertop Mountain, and by the fossil-hunters who chip trilobites, ammonites, and - more rarely - dinosaurs out of the region's millions of rocks.

Many people may have seen the place before me, but I still like to pretend that I am, in some obscure sense, the discoverer of Limestone Country. I'll have to track down that old AA map and fill in that blank space.

63 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

I clicked on the 'baobab' tree to enlarge it and I am introgued. I don't think it's a baobab (Limestone Country should be way out of their range) but...what the hell is it?

11:55 am  
Blogger Olivia Macassey said...

yeah I like it round that area too.


Nice pics. I seem to recall you had a good picture of Kawhia up here at one point but can't locate it.

2:47 pm  
Blogger Richard said...

I must go down there sometime - I once did - I was in a Tramping Club for time in 1995 - we went into an area near there - it was quite a strange locale indeed - but it rained and there seemed no way to keep dry so Bill and myself came home very cold...

Tramping Club people are often fanatics who just want to "do a track" at great speed - and not talk much about what is around them - some do but too many don't - so I must do some walking (in such places) with someone who does one day...

Maps you are certainly "Reading the Maps" - maybe you should talk about Smithyman's poem and his love of maps and place, as well as ideas, etc

10:22 pm  
Blogger Richard said...

Muzzle - in that part of kiwi land probably thought he was inside novel by Djuna Barnes or Mervyn Peak...

He is looking at the place as if it shouldn't be there - has no right to be there...

10:27 pm  
Blogger Richard said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

11:12 pm  
Blogger Richard said...

I feel that Muzzlehatch is more important than the limestone country - the more I study these images - the more Muzzle dominates the whole essay; there is something Heideggarian about all this - with deep lashings of Socialism and other isms - I just read an obit about Elsie Locke - an amazing person - but despite that...the land is disappearing since Muzzle put his piercing gaze on that strange land...and the deformations are increasing

11:15 pm  
Blogger Blaize said...

You have made me want to go there, which is the goal of all travel writing, but which most travel writing rarely does.

3:48 pm  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Nice post - I do enjoy your blog.

5:04 pm  
Blogger maps said...

Ta, and ta for introducing me to yours by commenting here...

5:32 pm  
Anonymous buy Cialis said...

sometime to discover a new paradise you must lost the real world, for this reason is a good idea have a map with you when you travel throught a new country or inclusive in your own country.

11:07 am  
Anonymous Buy Cialis said...

Excellent pictures, it really is a beautiful place.

1:28 am  
Anonymous viagra online said...

wow I would like to have near a place like this one, is so beautiful, thank you so much for posting this, you job is just great thanks.

2:54 am  
Anonymous Generic Cialis said...

Fantastic photos, it is really a beautiful place.

4:55 am  
Anonymous Phyljan 5 said...

My husband & I have just recently returned to 'Limestone Downs' via Port Waikato. If it's possible I have become even more enamoured of this beautiful piece of country.Please finish the sealing of the road so as more people will be able to enjoy the wonderful experience of this area.Phyl Williams

4:10 pm  
Blogger The.Trace said...

The part that I enjoyed most about my road trip via Limestone Downs was the opportunity to enjoy a good drive on an interesting gravel road. The gems of NZ must say non tar-sealed!

6:49 pm  
Anonymous ilmars Gravis said...

Have really enjoyed discovering your great blog. Your blog about Limestone Country caught my eye, especially the history of Limestone Downs. My first year Earth Sciences filed trip was there as the farm is part owned by Massey University now. I loved discovering the landscape and the great rock formations, but did find it had a bit of a bleak feel to it. Must go back and visit sometime.

12:57 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

Much thanks for this extraordinary post. Tax Investigation Advisors

1:19 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Greetings, I find perusing this article a delight. It is to a great degree supportive and fascinating and all that much anticipating perusing a greater amount of your work.. Tax Investigation Self Assessment

9:46 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

I am all that much satisfied with the substance you have said. I needed to thank you for this extraordinary article. Tax Investigation Specialists

1:24 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Your article has provoked a ton of positive hobby. I can see why since you have made such a decent showing of making it intriguing. Tax Investigation Self Employed

11:17 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

This is truly a decent and educational, containing all data furthermore greatly affects the new innovation. A debt of gratitude is in order for sharing it Tax Investigation Specialists

9:40 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

I can"t read articles online all the time, however I"m happy I did today. This is extremely elegantly composed and your focuses are very much communicated. Kindly, absolutely never quit composing. Tax Investigation Self Assessment

2:28 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

This was a truly incredible challenge and ideally I can go to the following one. It was alot of fun and I truly lived it up.. Tax Investigation Self Employed

9:43 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

I"ve been surfing online over three hours today, yet I never discovered any fascinating article like yours. It"s really sufficiently worth for me. As I would see it, if all website admins and bloggers made great substance as you did, the web will be significantly more helpful than any other time in recent memory. Revenue Tax Investigation

9:26 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

This was truly a fascinating theme and I kinda concur with what you have said here! Tax Investigation Self Employed

11:57 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

Brilliant showed data. I thank you about that. Undoubtedly it will be extremely valuable for my future ventures. Might want to see some different posts on the same subject! Tax Investigation Accountants

1:47 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

This article gives the light in which we can watch the truth. This is exceptionally decent one and gives indepth data. A debt of gratitude is in order for this decent article. Tax Investigation Self Assessment

2:57 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Keep doing awesome read few posts on this site and I consider that your online journal is extremely intriguing and has sets of phenomenal data. Tax Investigation Specialists

2:16 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

You're the best to share us about this overhaul. Trust you won't get tired on making posts as educational as this. Revenue Tax Investigation

2:13 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

This is an awesome motivating article.I am practically satisfied with your great work.You put truly exceptionally accommodating data. Keep it up. Continue blogging. Hoping to perusing your next post. Tax Investigation Accountants

5:27 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Extraordinary Article it its truly useful and inventive update us as often as possible with new upgrades. its was truly important. much appreciated. Tax Investigation Advisors

7:14 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

I'm happy I discovered this site, I couldn't discover any learning on this matter earlier to.Also work a webpage and on the off chance that you are ever inspired by doing some guest composing for me if conceivable don't hesitate to tell me, im dependably search for individuals to look at my site. Tax Investigation Self Assessment

12:40 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

This is a shrewd online journal. I would not joke about this. You have such a great amount of information about this issue, thus much energy. You likewise know how to make individuals rally behind it, clearly from the reactions. Tax Investigation Specialists

7:26 am  
Blogger meldaresearch said...

Our Top Custom Essay Writing Services are well informed about the different styles of formatting, and they ensure that Legitimate Essay Writing Service are formatted following the instructions provided. They are experts in different disciplines of studies and are committed to all clients.

12:10 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

On the off chance that you set out to make me think today; mission finished! I truly like you're composing style and how you express your thoughts. Much obliged to you. Crawley Accountants

2:44 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

pleasant post, stay aware of this fascinating work. It truly regards realize that this subject is being secured likewise on this site so cheers for setting aside time to talk about this! Accountants Crawley

2:02 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

If it's not too much trouble share more like that. Forest Row Accountants

2:53 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Just seek to say ones substance can be as unbelievable. This clarity with your post is magnificent and that i may believe you're a master for this issue. High caliber alongside your agree grant me to grab your present provide for keep altered by utilizing drawing nearer blog entry. You're the best many alongside you ought to go on the pleasurable take care of business. Capital Gains Tax Advice

1:01 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

I am unable to read articles online very often, but I’m glad I did today. This is very well written and your points are well-expressed. Please, don’t ever stop writing. Property Tax Advisor

2:06 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Pleasant to be going by your web journal again, it has been months for me. Well this article ive been sat tight for consequently long. i need this article to complete my task inside of the staff, and it has same subject together with your article. Much obliged, pleasant offer. Self Assessment Tax Return Accountants

11:18 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

Positive site, where did u concoct the data on this posting? I'm satisfied I found it however, sick be inquiring soon to figure out what extra posts you incorporate. Self Assessment Tax Return Accounts

2:23 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

I truly like you're composing style, awesome data, thankyou for posting. Self Assessment Tax Return

7:24 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

This will be a great site, might you be involved in doing an interview regarding just how you designed it? If so e-mail me! filing my Self Assessment Tax Return

1:38 am  
Blogger IMTiiz said...

I gotta most loved this site it appears to be exceptionally useful . help with Self Assessment Tax Return

4:18 am  
Blogger zeeshanarain said...

A debt of gratitude is in order for your post. I've been contemplating composing an exceptionally equivalent post in the course of the last couple of weeks, I'll most likely keep it quick and painless and connection to this rather if thats cool. Much obliged. دانلودفیلم

4:54 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

The site is looking piece ostentatious and it gets the guests eyes. Outline is really basic and a decent easy to use interface. East Grinstead Accountants

5:44 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

I am glad to locate your recognized method for composing the post. Presently you make it simple for me to comprehend and execute the idea. Much obliged to you for the post. Crawley Accountants

7:04 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Extremely pleasant article, I appreciated perusing your post, exceptionally decent share, I need to twit this to my adherents. Much appreciated!. Lingfield Accountants

6:56 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Good focuses you composed here..Great stuff...I think you've made some really fascinating points.Keep up the great work. Lingfield Accountants

6:56 am  
Blogger Shahmeer khan said...

You have a decent point here!I thoroughly concur with what you have said!!Thanks for sharing your views...hope more individuals will read this article!!! Crawley Accountants

11:07 pm  
Blogger Shahmeer khan said...

Much thanks to you such a great amount for sharing this incredible blog.Very motivating and accommodating too.Hope you keep on sharing a greater amount of your ideas.I will love to peruse. Crawley Accountants

11:07 pm  
Blogger Shahmeer khan said...

Adoration to peruse it,Waiting For More new Update and I Already Read your Recent Post its Great Thanks. Capital Gains Tax advice Accountants

2:47 am  
Blogger Shahmeer khan said...

Extraordinary overview, I'm certain you're getting an awesome reaction. Capital Gains Tax advice Accountants

2:48 am  
Blogger Shahmeer khan said...

It was thinking about whether I could utilize this review on my other site, I will connect it back to your site though.Great Thanks. Capital Gains Tax advice Accountants

2:49 am  
Blogger smithseo said...

Its an incredible joy perusing your post.Its brimming with data I am searching for and I want to post a remark that "The substance of your post is amazing" Great work. Capital Gains Tax Advice

12:55 am  
Blogger smithseo said...

I am unquestionably making the most of your site. You unquestionably have some extraordinary knowledge and incredible stories. Capital Gains Tax Advice

12:55 am  
Blogger jackman10 said...

I am curious to find out what blog system you’re working with? I’m experiencing some small security issues with my latest blog and I would like to find something more safeguarded. Do you have any suggestions? East Grinstead Accountants

12:22 am  
Blogger jackman10 said...

Thank you for all your labor on this blog. Betty takes pleasure in doing investigations and it’s simple to grasp why. Many of us notice all concerning the compelling tactic you create helpful guides by means of your web blog and in addition boost response from visitors on that idea then our simple princess is certainly discovering a whole lot. Take pleasure in the remaining portion of the new year. You are always conducting a tremendous job. East Grinstead Accountants

12:23 am  
Blogger jackman10 said...

Even while some sort of income tax discount could possibly could be seen as safe, it is really not likely. Accountants East Grinstead

1:06 am  
Blogger jackman10 said...

Even while some sort of income tax discount could possibly could be seen as safe, it is really not likely. Accountants East Grinstead

1:07 am  
Blogger jackman10 said...

I am curious to find out what blog platform you happen to be using? I’m experiencing some minor security problems with my latest site and I’d like to find something more safe. Do you have any recommendations? Crawley Accountants

11:49 pm  
Blogger smithseo said...

lbxzoiljxfvnjiumcjun, How long does xanax stay in your system, LOFZVRd. Forest Row Accountants

12:33 am  
Blogger smithseo said...

I like your web site! Better than the others I’ve recently study covering this. The layout is neat, mind if I duplicate this? Simply kidding?-Thanks! Forest Row Accountants

12:33 am  

Post a Comment

<< Home