How to stay warm on a winter's night in Auckland
Whenever I look at this photograph, which shows the waterfront market in Nuku'alofa, I develop an almost unbearable craving for roast puaka. The chaotic bookstalls at the waterfront market throw up ragged treasures: over the years I've found novels by Philip Roth and Cormac McCarthy, an erudite study of the poetry of the Koran, and a boxful of old and rare copies of the New Zealand Journal of History.
I love the photograph of King Siaosi Tupou II that hangs on the wall of Friends Cafe in downtown Nuku'alofa. Tupou II's grandfather Taufa'ahau used muskets and Bibles to unify Tonga in the second quarter of the nineteenth century, and then reigned as Tupou I for five decades. The founder of modern Tonga is normally presented by historians as a stern and practical man, but his grandson has been portrayed as a feckless hedonist more interested in partying than in politics.