Monday, May 22, 2006

Auckland's stonehenge


The Otuataua Stonefields Reserve is about as popular with tourists as Huntly or Island Block, yet it lies only a quarter of an hour from the centre of Auckland and includes half a dozen sites of considerable aesthetic as well as archaeological importance. The paucity of tour buses can probably explained by the fact that the stonefields sit on the shore of the Manukau Harbour between Mt Mangere and the airport, close to Auckland's recently decommissioned sewage works.

Yes, the shoreline still stinks, but a lot of work has gone into regenerating it - three new beaches, which the local council has given the genius names A, B, and C, have been created with sand and shells, thousands of trees have been planted, and a walkway has been laid. And, to be quite frank, I don't want this stretch of coast to completely lose its old smell, in case it starts to attract the yuppie couples who are gentrifying suburbs closer to town and chasing working class darkies away in the process. If the Mangere part of the Manukau Harbour gets too clean and pretty it'll end up on Metro magazine's list of 'Cool places to buy', and we'll see headlines like 'Mangere - the new Mission Bay?' in the Weekend Herald's Lifestyle section. Shit smells better than yuppies and their organic health food shops.

The stonefields themselves are the only sizeable remnant of the huge walled kumara gardens that Maori established across the Tamaki Makaurau peninsula many hundreds of years ago (the Waiohua iwi still has a strong presence in the Mangere area). The crooked, messy walls of the old Maori gardens contrast interestingly with the rigid lines of the walls European farmers built later to keep their stock out of volcanic vents and kumara pits. Ancient karaka and out of control Moreton Bay Fig trees rise out of piles of rock. Here and there the foundations of Maori dwellings can be seen. Rare native cucumbers grow between the stones, and there's even a publicly-owned avocado grove which passers by are invited to sample (the limit is five 'units', a large sign warns sternly).

Muzzlehatch and I were doing reasonably well crossing the stonefields until one of us had the bright idea of wandering from the trail. We ended up half a mile out in the Manukau Harbour, slogging through mud and mangroves in an effort to avoid a flock of hostile bulls and a vindictive electric fence. Things got worse when we tacked back to land and found ourselves in the middle of a quarry full of signs saying things like HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE EXPLOSIVES and DON'T BE A HERO - PHONE 111.

After climbing up a crumbling scoria cliff to escape the quarry we came face to face with one of the descendants of the nineteenth century European farmers who built those stern Protestant walls. In fact, the bloke was so old he may have been one of the wall-builders. After briefing us on the failings of our generation, our fathers' generation, and their fathers' generation, Cedric ordered us back into the high explosives zone, observing that 'I'm not responsible for any damage that occurs there'. He farms in the zone between the stonefields, the quarry, and the airport, and is regularly troubled by burglars. When I protested that we were not the burgling type, and were much more interested in native cucumbers, the old duffer became even less impressed with us. 'How do I know you're not something worse, then, eh? We've got the Japs and the Jerries knocking on the door, you know...'

After prolonged negotiations we were awarded safe passage up his cattle race and back to Muzzlehatch's car. A couple of stiff drinks and some greasy takeaways were in order.

Here are a couple of photos of Auckland's stonehenge and its surroundings. They're blurred because, let's face it, Muzzlehatch's camera is crap.







19 Comments:

Blogger Frank Partisan said...

Really interesting post. Every one of your posts are an adventure.

10:05 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

It is basic that we read blog entry painstakingly. I am as of now done it and find this post is truly stunning. Tax Investigation Advisors

1:09 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

This is genuinely an awesome read for me. I have bookmarked it and I am anticipating perusing new articles. Keep doing awesome!. Tax Investigation Self Assessment

9:37 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

Much thanks to you such a great amount for sharing this incredible blog.Very motivating and accommodating too.Hope you keep on sharing a greater amount of your ideas.I will love to peruse. Tax Investigation Specialists

9:51 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

Just try to specify ones substance can be as mind blowing. This clarity with your post is radiant and that i may believe you're a master for this issue. High caliber alongside your agree grant me to grab your present provide for keep changed by utilizing drawing nearer blog entry. You rock several alongside you ought to go on the pleasurable take care of business. Tax Investigation Self Employed

11:09 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

i was simply scanning along and happened upon your site. simply needed to say great site and this article truly helped me. Tax Investigation Accountants

12:47 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Fascinating theme for an online journal. I have been scanning the Internet for the sake of entertainment and happened upon your site. Impressive post. Much appreciated a ton for sharing your insight! It is extraordinary to see that a few individuals still invest an exertion into dealing with their sites. I'll make sure to return again genuine soon. Tax Investigation Advisors

12:56 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

A debt of gratitude is in order for the post and awesome tips..even I additionally imagine that diligent work is the most imperative part of getting achievement.. Tax Investigation Specialists

9:32 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

I was taking a gander at some of your posts on this site and I consider this site is truly informational! Keep setting up.. Tax Investigation Self Employed

9:36 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

I was perusing your article and thought about whether you had considered making a digital book on this subject. You"re composing would offer it quick. You have a considerable measure of composing ability. Revenue Tax Investigation

9:17 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Extraordinary data! I as of late went over your online journal and have been perusing along. I thought I would leave my first remark. I don't recognize what to say aside from that I have. Tax Investigation Self Employed

11:52 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

Incredible Article it its truly useful and imaginative update us as often as possible with new upgrades. its was truly profitable. much appreciated. Tax Investigation Accountants

1:44 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

I truly adored perusing your website. It was extremely all around composed and straightforward. Not at all like different online journals I have perused which are truly not that good.Thanks alot! Tax Investigation Self Assessment

2:54 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Yes i am completely concurred with this article and i simply need say this article is exceptionally pleasant and extremely useful article.I will make a point to be perusing your blog more. You made a decent point yet I can't resist the urge to ponder, shouldn't something be said about the other side? !!!!!!THANKS!!!!!! Tax Investigation Specialists

2:13 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

You finished a couple fine focuses there. I did an inquiry on the subject and discovered about all persons will oblige with your online journal. Revenue Tax Investigation

2:07 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

I truly like your thoughts on the issue. I now have an unmistakable thought on what this matter is about.. Tax Investigation Accountants

5:21 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Great post yet I was thinking about whether you could compose a litte more on this subject? I"d be extremely grateful on the off chance that you could expound a smidgen further. Welcome it! Tax Investigation Advisors

7:10 pm  
Blogger tamsi said...

i cherish perusing this article so beautiful!!great work! Tax Investigation Self Assessment

12:36 am  
Blogger tamsi said...

Incredible post I might want to thank you for the endeavors you have made in composing this intriguing and educated article. Tax Investigation Specialists

7:19 am  

Post a Comment

<< Home